Kabul Journal

Published on 17 April 2010 by ianpounds in Kabul Journal

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This journal begins in 2009, on Ian Pounds’ first trip to the AFCECO orphanages in Kabul, and continues with his current writings on his second stint as a volunteer with AFCECO. You’ll find the journal entries from the 2009 trip beneath the current entries. So, if you’d like to get a chronological account of Ian’s time in the orphanages, read from the last post forward to the most recent. To see a description of each photo, just place the cursor over it with your mouse, and one will pop up.

If you’d like to comment on any of the posts, either click the blue comment box in the top right of the post, or view the post on its own page by clicking its title; you’ll then find a comment box displayed at the bottom of the post.

September 3rd

Published on 03 September 2010 by ianpounds in Kabul Journal

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Yesterday I had the top older boys in class, Omid, Dariush, Farid Gul and Ali.  They took a quiz on proverbs from Kenya and the history of the Panama Canal.  All four of them got 100% correct.  There has been a shift in their attentiveness to their studies.  The exam was not particularly easy.  There were fifteen proverbs of which I gave the opening line in English that they had to finish from an extensive list of possible endings.  For the history section a one-page essay had 15 words missing they had to fill in correctly.  I have gotten their comprehension skills where I want them to be; now it is time to graduate them to composition.  The degree to which these boys have developed cannot be underestimated.  They are going to be a powerful force in their society, given they are male and they are worldly, astute, and respect women as their equal.  Every time they arrive at class we clasp hands and hug one another.  There is a sense of comradeship as if we are all survivors of a close call with forces of nature.  When I go to the boys orphanage I am the same teacher that teaches the girls, but there is a facet to being in an all-boy realm that harkens me back to places woven into my spirit, of climbing trees, hunting, running, building, tackling, taunting and teasing.  The strangeness comes with the fact that the boys in Sitara III are not youngsters any more.  They are fourteen to seventeen year olds, and what flies in the face of all my experience is there is no preponderance of girl-craziness.  In fact there is none at all.  I do not know if this is good or bad, but it does seem to strengthen their ability to have and nurture relationships with anyone- girls, adults, children, based on something more than sheer impulse.

After the quiz the boys and I read a traditional fable from China called The Magic Pear Tree.  In it a respectable, hard working farmer is selling his pears in the village.  The pears are “luscious”.  Along comes an old monk who asks the farmer for one of his beautiful pears.  The farmer draws a line, most likely not feeling too deeply about it one way or the other.  But the monk persists, driving the farmer further and further from the notion of relinquishing even the smallest of his pears.  “Bystanders” assemble and begin to side with the monk.  “Just give the old man a pear and he will go away!”  But the farmer is now making a point; this monk never does anything for anyone, he never works, he is lazy and all he does is pray.  Why should he support him?  One of the bystanders buys a small pear and gives it to the monk.  But the show is not over.  This monk eats the pear and buries the pit.  “Miraculously” a tree grows that bears fruit right before their very eyes.  Everyone is given a pear and the monk walks away, happily.  But the joke is on the farmer, as the charismatic monk has slight of hand stolen all the pears from the cart, making it look like they had grown on a makeshift tree.  The farmer is left humiliated, while the bystanders laugh at him.

This simple story is full of conflicting sentiments, which is good for discussion.  Ali and Omid argued for the monk.  An old man deserves respect, and the farmer was being stubborn and selfish.  Farid Gul and Dariush stood up for the farmer, who had a valid point to make and had every right to refuse the monk, who would simply go to the next person and the next, promising nothing in return, not even a little wisdom, just as he had done his entire adult life.  This debate led us to the subject of beggars in the streets of Kabul, who do you give to, who do you not.  The boys all agreed that it depended on the beggar.  A little child, a widow, a man on crutches are all without thinking going to elicit some money from them.  A teenage boy with nice sneakers is not.

How people give and who gives has been the topic of many unscientific studies.  They like to maintain the ironic conclusion that the poorest households in the United States give on average 4.3 percent of their income while the richest fifth give just 2.1 percent of their income.  But of course, if that 2.1% comes to twenty-one thousand dollars from one person for one cause, while that 4.3% comes to one thousand, it seems like a comparison that is hard to judge.  It is true Christian conservatives in the heartland give significantly more percentage wise of their income than liberals in San Francisco.  This is indicative of the philosophical divide now raging in America, those who trust and believe the government should use tax dollars to help those who cannot help themselves, and those who don’t.  Regardless of this issue, across socio-economic strata two-thirds of Americans give.  Unarguably they give more than any other nation, both in total amount and percentage of GNP. Yet in conjunction with this giving, Americans know so little about what they are giving to.  We have given several billion dollars to Afghanistan, for example, while 73% of us do not know where Afghanistan is located.  The longest my country has been involved in a singular war, 9 ½ years, and we don’t know where it is?  It doesn’t take much guesswork to imagine how little else Americans know about Afghanistan or its people.  This is a peculiar conjunction, this giving without knowing.  A photograph of a starving child with flies buzzing, a veteran begging in the street elicit money even though that organization feeding that starving child sucks 45% of that dollar for advertising and high salaries and $80,000 SUVs, and that veteran spends that dollar on a bottle of wine that sinks him deeper into oblivion.  Why do we give to the bucket a few coins, or our tax dollars to the government?  A sense of civic duty, an act of faith?  Whatever the case, it can’t be because we know the actual path of that money.

Then there are those who give because they themselves were the beneficiaries of giving.  These are people who do not get much press.  More glamorous are the ones who become wards of the state, the “welfare mother” that was held up by politicians to scream bloody murder while 90% of welfare went to corporations that could not compete the old fashioned way.  But the reality is most people who have been helped, help.  This is why I think the poor in America give more proportionately in income and in numbers than the middle class, and the middle class give more than the rich.

Many of the children of AFCECO go back and forth between the world of the village and that of the orphanage.  The ones who don’t come from a place even more destitute.  English is a by-product of what I teach them.  We learn the engineering problems of a canal and the philosophical problems of giving, and we learn the ethical implications of improving the world of commerce at the expense of thousands of inhabitants, or standing up for your rights as a hard working individual in the face of popular dissent.  We know where the Statue of Liberty stands, who Mao and Gandhi were, what coffee means to Kenya and why Alexander, the greatest general in human history lost the faith of his soldiers.  Mostly, though, I teach these children who have seen death in all its manifestations why I care about these things, rather than that they should care.  When Alexander dies not from glorious wounds, but from overconsumption of wine and meat, when Roxanna, nine months pregnant with his son closes his eyes to “catch his parting soul”, I am crushed by the tragedy, the irony and the strength and courage and adoration.  I want my students who already know viscerally so much more about life than I ever will why it is I am here, that it is not because of a governmental or religious mandate, not because I am a particularly giving kind of guy, not because I feel deeply and empathetically sad for them, but because I find life and history and this planet are all so damned interesting, and to contain it like a stoic on a rock overlooking the sea is just not going to do it for me.  Some people find my sentiment akin to a born-again experience, and that I in essence am no different than a missionary.  If God is a white whale crashing into Ahab’s ship, if God is moving faster than the speed of light as well as the particular shade of purple the exoskeleton of an urchin displays in the early autumn sun, then I suppose I am somewhat of a missionary in spirit.  Other people have accused me of imposing some sort of neo-colonialism upon yet another poor culture.  In the sense that I understand fully that I get more out of this experience than I probably give, this also must be true.  But without compunction I say that in the final analysis I am only seeking love.  When those boys appear at the top of the stairs, when they automatically smile and almost laugh at just looking at my expression, when they grab hold my hand and wrap their other arm around my shoulder, when they eagerly await what “miraculous” part of the world I am going to visit next, I am filled with it.  My heart beats against my chest, my pulse quickens, I am alive.  This is the only way for me to live, and this I pray is how it will be when I die.

So many times I feel powerless.  I have never been more powerless than I am now.  Here my cultural identity is stripped away layer upon layer.  I must ask for everything to be done for me.  Decisions and priorities are all directed by the needs of others.  Back home I have nothing waiting for me, no career, no retirement, no house, a small savings account, a thirteen-year old car.  I am not twenty; this is not exactly a carefree moment in my life.  The only power I have is in my classroom, and even there I constantly fight against wielding it because in essence to teach is to empower.  I miss stonework.  I miss splitting shingles and stacking firewood.  I miss stopping by a pub because I feel like it, and I miss making and spending money.  It may be that I write these weekly entries out of a desperate need for power.  But I think whatever this desire, this need, it is overruled by a more practical motive.  Though much of this chronicle is a study of the thoughts and memories and trials of a man more than tales of the children, I hope that the reader understands the sentiment is one of a sacrificial poet putting himself up on the chopping block for study, not for self-interest.  Though it is a curious life, in essence it really is no more curious than any other.  It is the universality I reach for, not some sense of speciality.  I am, after all, an American, and it is Americans I wish to help as much as the people of Afghanistan.

The ice cream man is passing by.  Today his music box plays Beethoven’s Fur Elise.  He has been the one constant here in Kabul, ever since my first day in Mehan a year and a half ago.  He is like that buoy tinkling its bell in the distance, a sentry, a guide and witness to all the tides calm and not so calm that pass beneath its beam.  I would go to him and purchase a vanilla chocolate sandwich, even though in theory it could place me in dangerous waters.  I would ask him what part of Afghanistan he is from.  Most everyone here is from somewhere else.  He would ask me if I am from England or America.  I would make him laugh by saying “Ma az Kabul hastum!”  He would not be in a hurry to move on, and we might talk about the future of Afghanistan.  He would shrug his shoulders and smile the kind of smile you give when life is just plain too crazy and perplexing to argue over.

“We will see,” he’d say in English, because almost everyone in this city knows this phrase, more than okay, more than see you later.

We will see.

Prometheus (Un)Bound, adapted from the tragedy by Aeschylus and directed by Ian Pounds

(Note, though this is the English version, the play was performed in Dari)

Sahar as Zeus

Sorab as Hermes

Maria as Prometheus

Neda as Power

Parwana as Ideology

Sitiza as Industry

Shogofa as Pandora

Pashtana as Lo

Farzana as Oceanus

Frishta as the Eagle

Mohsan as Lo’s son

Oceanids: Nagina, Nabila, Mursal, Farida, Lida, Mahbooba, Medina, Khalida, Adila

A bare, open stage. Oceanids file on, masked.  Their king, Oceanus enters and addresses the audience.

OCEANUS: My name is Oceanus.  I rule the oceans, rivers, lakes, and rain.  I am the oldest God.  There has always been war.  The longest war is between men and their gods.

OCEANIDS: The Great Game.

OCEANUS: Because men wanted to be Gods-

OCEANIDS: Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane…

OCEANUS: Zeus, the King of Gods wanted to destroy men.

OCEANIDS: Mighty Zeus!  Mighty Zeus!  Mighty Zeus!

ZEUS: All men must bow to me.  On punishment of death each man must sacrifice his fattest lamb.

OCEANUS: Men acting like Gods, Gods acting like men: this war has lasted so long it is impossible to tell who is God and who is Man.  But there is hope.  One who is not God or man, one who believes in peace.  Her name is Prometheus!

PROMETHEUS: Will it please Zeus to choose what lamb he will eat?

ZEUS: Who is this fool?  Does she know who I am?

HERMES: This is Prometheus, a minor Goddess.

ZEUS: She has me choose between the stomach and the fat.  Do you mock me, woman?

PROMETHEUS: I would never mock the king of Gods.  I offer you a simple choice, with only one request: promise that the one you choose is the one all men will sacrifice forever in your name.

ZEUS: This I will do without thinking.  I choose the fat of the lamb.

HERMES: Mighty Zeus, you have been tricked.  Hidden in the fat is a bone, and hidden in the stomach is the finest meat!

OCEANIDS:  (Laughing and cheering.)  A bone for the king of Gods!  A bone for the king of Gods!  All hail the king of Gods!

ZEUS:  Hermes!  Who is this woman? Not some minor Goddess.

HERMES:  Mighty Zeus, I do not know.  She lives not in the land of Gods.  She prefers the land of poor and suffering human beings.

ZEUS: We will break her spell over the people.  Take fire from the poor and suffering.  They may keep their meat, but they will never cook it!

HERMES: At once, Mighty Zeus!

1st OCEANID: Hermes, the messenger of Zeus, stole fire from the people.

2nd OCEANID: She hid it in the land of Gods, but Prometheus did not fear Zeus.

3rd OCEANID: She disguised herself as a servant.  She cooked a feast for Zeus, one so full of fat that Zeus fell into a deep sleep.

1st OCEANID:  He hid fire in a pot and returned it to the land of the poor and suffering.

PROMETHEUS: People of the world, I bring you fire!  Will you write your destiny, or will you let the Gods decide how you live?

OCEANIDS: We decide our destiny!  We decide our destiny!  We decide…

HERMES: Mighty Zeus, Prometheus is more popular among humans than you!

ZEUS: Do you think I care if I am popular?  I will hurt Prometheus where she lives.  She will watch her people suffer more.   I will make a woman of her likeness, and I will have her deliver a gift to the world.  A gift from the Gods no man will ever forget!  Pandora!

PANDORA: Yes Mighty Zeus!

(music of Steel Drum)

Prometheus?

PROMETHEUS: Who are you, and where do you come from?

PANDORA: I am Pandora.  Like you, I have escaped the house of Zeus.  I only had to promise I would deliver this gift.

PROMETHEUS: Do not deliver this gift!

PANDORA: Why, Prometheus?  It must be something powerful.  It is from the Gods!  I want my freedom.  Zeus promised me.  All I need to do is deliver this gift.

PROMETHEUS:  I do not know what gift this is, but no one must ever open it!

PANDORA: I will look inside, and if it is bad I will destroy it!

(Opens box.  Greed, Poverty and War appear)

PROMETHEUS: What have you done! 

PANDORA: Who are you!

4th OCEANID: I am Greed!

5th OCEANID: I am War

6th OCEANID: I am Poverty!

PROMETHEUS: Pandora, there is one thing left in this gift.  It is blind hope.  Please keep it for yourself.  The damage is done.  To give the people blind hope would be more cruel than all the suffering you have just given the world.

(music louder, then fade off)

ZEUS: All men and women bow to me.  All Gods bow to me.  I am not finished with Prometheus.  Hermes, assemble Industry, Ideology, Power!  Bring them to Prometheus.  She is struck with despair.  Take her to Mount Olympus and chain her to the stone.  Each day an eagle will come down from heaven and eat her liver, and each night the liver will grow back.  Again and again she will suffer this torment.  Forever!

(The three go to Prometheus, stand around her, she is oblivious, grieving.)

POWER: Industry, have you ever seen such sadness?

INDUSTRY: Never.  I cannot do this dirty work.

IDEOLOGY: You are weak!  You must obey the command of Zeus!

INDUSTRY: Prometheus, speak to us.  Tell us why you anger Zeus.

IDEOLOGY: You see, she does not speak.  She is worthless.

POWER: Prometheus, why do you care for humanity?  Power is the only thing that controls destiny.  Not the human heart.

HERMES: Why do you wait?  Take her away now!

(they put her on a stretcher and carry her away to the place where she is to be tied)

IDEOLOGY: How are you now, Prometheus?  You are clever, but without Power you cannot break your chains, and without Industry you cannot obtain power, and without Ideology, you will never control Industry.

PROMETHEUS: I am not interested in your world.

IDEOLOGY: You see, she does not believe in anything.

INDUSTRY: The deed is done.  Leave her alone.

POWER: I agree.  She has nothing to say.

PROMETHEUS: Give your God a message.  Tell him there will come a day I will be released, and that day will be the day you, Ideology, no longer control Power, and you Power no longer control Industry, and you Industry no longer work for the forces of poverty, greed and war.

IDEOLOGY: This day will never come.

PROMETHEUS: There is no greatness in living forever.  No greatness in having a wall between you and the world.

POWER: No greatness, Prometheus, in being chained to a stone.

HERMES: Come.  We must go.  Do not listen to her!

PROMETHEUS: You of all have most to gain from what I say, Hermes.  Your boss will reward you.

HERMES: There is nothing you know Zeus does not already know.  Good-bye Prometheus.  There is no mercy for those who try to change their own destiny.

PROMETHEUS: Destiny!  Ha!  Come, destiny.  I welcome you.  Wrap your arms around me.  Squeeze me until I cannot breathe.  Come!  Do your worst, and when the day is over we will see who is king and who is not!

(eagle approaches, cuts Prometheus, removing her liver.  Prometheus screams)

OCEANIDS: Poor, poor Prometheus!

1st OCEANID: Day after day, year after year the Eagle tortured her.  Every time the Eagle came Prometheus said the same thing:

OCEANIDS: Come!  Do your worst!

2nd OCEANID: Until one day a beautiful woman appeared.

OCEANIDS: Her name was Lo

LO: My name is Lo.

PROMETHEUS: I know.

LO: How do you know?  If you are so wise then answer three questions: where do I come from, why am I here, and where will I go?

PROMETHEUS: The truth will destroy you, so I will tell you a lie.

LO: This is not an answer!

PROMETHEUS: Whether it is true or not, an answer is an answer.

LO: Then answer me and I will decide if it is true.

PROMETHEUS: I have nothing to lose.  You come from Zeus.  He wants you for his wife.  You are here to ask me if you should submit to him…

LO: And the future?

PROMETHEUS: From you will spring a son more powerful than Zeus, a son who will release me from these chains and throw Zeus from his throne.

LO: You lie!

PROMETHEUS: He is listening.  It is impossible to lie to God.

HERMES: Mighty Zeus, I have news…

PROMETHEUS: Already He is turning the wheels of destiny.  Yours, and mine.

LO: Stop!  You are scaring me!

ZEUS: Call off the wedding!  I will not see her again.  Turn her into an ugly woman, send her to Africa.  Have her marry a man who has nothing.

OCEANIDS: Poor Lo!  Poor Lo! 

PROMETHEUS: Well done mighty Zeus!  Tell me, who controls destiny?  Is it you or me?  The lie is in your mind, Zeus!  She will bear a son.  The father will be a poor African.  It is this son I speak of.  It is this son who will be more powerful than you.  He will release me, and on that day, you will fall from heaven.  You have sealed your own fate, Zeus, by listening to me.

(Eagle approaches again)

Come, do your worst!

OCEANIDS: Come, do your worst!  Come, do your worst…

(ZEUS screams in anger, PROMETHEUS in laughter and pain, the OCEANIDS swarm around them repeating their words, the EAGLE cuts into PROM.)

OCEANUS: It was a time when men wanted to be God, and God wanted to destroy men.  It was a war without end.  The will of God is strong, and so is the spirit of man.  Then came Prometheus.  Her power is the power of the moon.  Without her, the oceans will not move.  She brought fire to the world.  But fire has two blades.  One of life, and one of death!

(Prometheus starts to laugh)

See, here she laughs.  Prometheus, have you gone crazy?

PROMETHEUS: Crazy?  Yes!  Crazy with joy!

OCEANUS: Poor Prometheus, she has gone truly mad.

PROMETHEUS: Laugh, Oceanus.  Cry!  Feel!  Or what you do not know will soon bring you down along with Zeus.  That would be sad, it is nice to have a God such as you.

(laughs)

OCEANUS: How do I answer her?  She talks in riddles.  Yet she makes me feel.

PROMETHEUS: Because, Oceanus, I have not only given fire to the world, but when you were not looking I have given the blade of life!  Reading and writing…

OCEANIDS: Reading!  Writing!

PROMETHEUS: Mathematics…

OCEANIDS: Mathematics!

PROMETHEUS: Agriculture, medicine…

OCEANIDS: Agriculture!  Medicine!

PROMETHEUS: Science.

OCEANIDS: Science!

OCEANUS: But Prometheus, you are feeding this war.  Those are the means for man to become God.

PROMETHEUS: No, Oceanus.  The goal is not to live forever.  The goal is to feel alive!

(Prometheus laughs.  Music.  Slowly the Oceanids swarm around Prometheus and then circle Zeus.  Hermes runs away in fear.  Power and Industry come forward.  Lo appears with a son.  Her son frees the chains from Prometheus.  Ideology cowers in the corner.  Zeus faints.  Ocenids carry her away on a stretcher.)

August 27th

Published on 27 August 2010 by ianpounds in Kabul Journal

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If there is any indication at all that the girls (and the one boy, Sorab) did a great job in their debut of the Afghan version of Prometheus (Un)Bound (in Dari) it would have to be the fact that after seeing the show all the boys have asked to join drama.  Maria was fabulous as the heroine (Prometheus for our purposes was a woman).  She captured the character’s transitions from trickster to humanitarian to destroyed dreamer to wise fool and finally the defiant and prevailing peaceful warrior in the battle for freedom.  Sahar played Zeus, and did a fine job as the overstuffed, overconfident king of the gods.  The chorus played up their role well; with their masked faces outlined by black scarves wrapped about their heads they transfixed the audience that I am almost certain for the most part had not seen such a thing before.  You could not tell if the ghostly chorus was made up of girls or boys, which was just right.  Andeisha and Jamshid are convinced of the value inherent in teaching drama to the children.  It is my dream to work the troupe we call “Raven Clan” (remember the T-shirts?) into some English language performances.  What if they were to take their shows on the road?  What if they were to perform in Europe and America?

My other performers were brave if not perfect, or rather perfect in their imperfection.  Farzana Nori recited in English a difficult Hamlet speech, as transposed for the rock-musical Hair.  “What a piece of work is man…” took some guts to learn both meaning and pronunciation, with such big words in sentence structures often reversed for poetic purposes.

Malalai Butterfly recited my favorite poem of Rumi’s, The Way of Love, and a group of younger girls sang as best they could an anti-war anthem.  At the last minute we determined, given that the event was open to the public, it would be unwise for an American man to be strumming music on stage, especially during Ramazan.  So the girls sang a-cappella for the first time without any key or rhythm to guide them.  They hung in there as best they could until the last when their timing began to stray.

As some of you have gleaned, these past weeks I have nudged close to the limits of my capabilities.  The root cause of such times has usually to do with volume, too much happening too fast.  Sometimes it is a combination of things.  Sometimes it is something from the past that complicates the present.  Sometimes it is simply the body breaking down.  In this instance it was all the above.  A case of chronic vertigo came upon me, something caused by training for a marathon two years ago.  My inner ear is mixed up from all that pounding on pavement.  The effect is like seasickness.  I move around as if I am a bobble head on the dashboard of a dune buggy.  This in and of itself is not something to whine about, given the suffering I see every day I drive through the streets of Kabul.  But it frustrates my desire to be 100% and jovial in my classes, rather than white faced and woozy.

The attack on Andeisha’s family was a shock that reverberates still, and morale was challenged as I had yet to see in all my time here.  The shame, fear and humiliation inflicted upon that family radiated out like ripples after a stone is dropped through the surface of a glassy pool of water.  I interviewed Hamid, Andeisha’s brother.  For two hours I wrote down every last detail of his experience.  I promised him I would write the story in my journal.  It is something I am compelled to do, as much as anyone would like to forget such things it must not be swept under the rug.  The entire family has exhibited a strength in character that continues to astound me.  They care not so much for items stolen, the terror inflicted.  More worried are they for the scores of others, citizens who are not so fortunate, who have nobody to turn to when such a thing happens, as it has happened frequently, indiscriminately and without warning all over Afghanistan.

In any event, no matter what transpires AFCECO must carry on, so that is what Andeisha and Jamshid did.  Who was I to take pause?  One volunteer, Chanda left and a new one Angela headed in.  I had much to do in closure and preparation.  Simultaneously, a great benefactor named Richard Riess donated funds to open yet another new orphanage in Herat.  Immediately plans were set in motion.  Again simultaneously, Andeisha won an award from Fortune Magazine in partnership with Goldman Sachs, money to be used for a girl’s leadership training program that we dreamily composed in a proposal back in June.  The curriculum I put together for the fall is going onto a shelf as I now must devise an entirely new curriculum that will include guest speakers (Bashardost, Malalai Joya are hoped to come), lecturers, skill building activities that will prepare our oldest girls, 14 of them, for the world beyond the orphanage.  This culminates with the top three students going to the U.S. for three months this winter, a mentorship program that I am thrilled to be putting together.  (Originally we planned for five girls, five locations.  We had to reduce this number to three, and at the moment I am leaning toward one placement in Boston, one in New York and one in D.C., vibrant opportunities, apart but not too far apart so I can maintain overall supervision.)

With all these trajectories I found myself not entirely rising to the occasion.  Instead I started to feel buried.  I had to prepare my performers for the Independence Day celebration, and along with bobble head I was suddenly assaulted with a case of intestinal you-know-what.

Shameless and melodramatic, I may as well tack on here the fact that I negotiated these past few weeks a large dose of the past slipping into my consciousness.  As I approach September I think of where I was a year ago, saying good-bye to the children with no indication I would ever see them again, no money and no place to call home.  I go back a year further and recall the last phase of my training for the Marine Corps Marathon, slowly working out the loss of a deep and lingering love, or exactly three years ago when I left my home in Vermont, saying goodbye to thirteen years living in the quaint village of Ripton, the Bread Loaf Writers’ community, and so-on and so forth.  You know where these thoughts lead.

I’ve often fought with my streak of sentimentality.  It is a luxury, and it is indulgent.  But sometimes I wonder if this is not merely the modern voice that ridicules such feelings.  Old journals are riddled with sentimentality, from soldiers to explorers to chroniclers of history.  Even Darwin filled his pages with some pretty gooey longing for things past, for the unknown whether it is God or the great Void.  Whatever the case, it passes, and it has passed.  The party is over, and there is work to be done.  The girls are so excited about the new leadership class they were literally jumping up and down and wringing their hands.  The boys of Sitara II are ramping up their Taekwando training, and the girls of Mehan are ecstatic to have begun their Karate classes with Angela.  The lives of these children go forward, the garden it there and we are its tenders, however we roll out of bed.  This morning I received an e-mail from The Evergreen State College, one of the institutions that dared enroll me in my five and a half year quest to obtain a Bachelor’s degree.  One of the administrators had forwarded quotes that students retained from my presentation there last February.  It was a very strange experience- the person I was, travelling the country giving impromptu talks about the orphans of Mehan and Sitara, is not the person I am today.  But it is fruitful to remember that every moment of my life is an opportunity to send a message to the person I will be in a year, two years or ten.  As I look at the messages from Ian six months ago, one seems useful to me now: Acting, he said wistfully, is like breathing.

Last night I listened to Angela as she described how the process of coming here actually trained her for being here.  I nodded.  It has to do with the same way you travel along a narrow path through the forest, along a river, higher up to a mountain ridge, deeper and deeper into the wilderness. There is a dot on a map, but destination is only an abstract and incidental notion.  You keep your eyes trained on the path ten yards ahead of you.  If there is a fallen tree, a ravine, a beast of some sort, you adjust accordingly.  Underlying this journey is the necessity to trust that which you cannot know, and of course you mustn’t forget to pick up your feet and mind where they land.

“I have of late, but wherefore I know not lost all my mirth…”  As I watched Farzana add yet another dimension to those famous words, the trough I’d been through of late appeared to me not as an omen, but as a simple bend in the road.  Farzana had quite frankly on her own found a way into that speech, grabbed it by the neck and made it hers, an anthem not of despair and disbelief but of strength long before she reached the defiance of the final verse tacked on by the creators of Hair.

I’m afraid I was too nervous to hold a camera during the drama group’s performance, but to see the Hamlet speech, go to the following link.  It is not my fleeting woes, nor my words I wish to linger in your mind’s eye this week, but Farzana Nori, her voice, her determination, and her unflinching and beautiful eyes set firmly upon her future, and the future of her people.

August 11

Published on 14 August 2010 by ianpounds in Kabul Journal

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Ramadan begins.

I made my way to Mehan, even though it is a holiday.  Several girls would be gone to practice Roza (fasting) with family members in Kabul.  I arrived at the orphanage just as the house mother Nasifa set up a chair to begin cutting hair.  The girls would be transformed into tomboys today.  For the most part they were good sports.  Only one, Gulalai from Nuristan was unhappy with her cut.  She hid herself in the bathroom and wailed for thirty minutes.  This ritual is a practicality for seventy girls who get to wash hair twice a week.  After greeting everyone I proceeded to teach my three beginner classes.  My heart was not quite into it.  Students were missing and I didn’t want to get too far ahead of them.  When lunch came around I sat with the majority of girls who were not fasting.  Outside the walls of the orphanage, to go against the grain and not observe Roza takes a different kind of will.  But in Mehan Ramadan and praying and fasting are integrated into life in such a way as to appreciate these practices without having them mandate the entire spirit of the orphanage.  Some girls will fast for three days and that will be enough.  Others don’t participate at all.  A handful of four or five will do Roza for the full month.  Last year I fasted for two days, no water or food between 4am and 7pm.  I go back and read my journal entry and sense deliriousness between the lines.  Ramadan affects this city with a surreal timelessness, like gauze in front of the camera lens.  Everyone is praying to God with a little extra verve, and everyone is weary.

I ate a boiled chicken leg and a plate of rice and one very hot pepper.  Having a meal with the kids is one of my favorite things to do.  Everyone is very relaxed.  It is a time for conversation and joking.  From the day I arrived on April 15th, 2009 I have made an effort at every turn to provoke a smile on every face I see in the orphanage.  Even if I am just walking up the stairs and I pass one of the girls sitting on the landing staring longingly out the window, I will say something, make a funny expression, tug on a braid or touch the palm of a hand with mine.  Though life for the children is spectacular compared to where they come from, it is important to acknowledge just how difficult it is for them.  They are misfits.  When they go to school they are surrounded by children who live with a mother and father and siblings and extended family.  They are looked upon with pity or with scorn by many of their peers and even their teachers.  Many of them are privy to floating ridicule.  Especially the girls.  The whispered words such as they live like westerners, or the orphanage is really a brothel. Others are jealous of the orphans because of all the attention they get, cameras and fancy people coming to visit, computers and extra programs, trips to America and Italy.  There are teachers who mark up one of the orphan’s tests while overlooking a “normal” student who scribes the same answers.  It is true that having their own school would increase isolation, but the benefits for AFCECO’s children would far outweigh the detriments that are already to some degree a reality.  In addition, the government program is thin, and it pushes out primary elements to any good curriculum by requiring the children to study Arabic and the Koran.  These are meaningless to many Afghans who, although they may be good practicing Moslems, see school as a place where they should gain skills that can help them feed, clothe and house themselves and their families.  This is compounded by the fact that all told there are only about five months of actual school days per year, and those days are comprised of three hours of instruction from teachers who are tired and live on $30 a month.  At this point, appearing elitist is relatively negligible; we’ll take our own school if we can somehow find the donor.  Besides, to alleviate any cloistering issues this school could be made available to other children, those who can afford to pay and those who cannot, but who otherwise bring more diversity into the school.

I pulled out the papier-mache masks the children had made for the Greek drama we are to perform next week.  Six of the girls set up a workstation and we spent a few hours painting them.  Some chose to be patriotic, using up all the black, green and red poster paint.  Others went with all white and black eyes, or Mardi Gras style with red lips and stars, like a harlequin.  The atmosphere was light and festive.  Masks are the quickest way to bring magic into the classroom.  Their transformative power is unequaled from time immemorial.  Their power in Greek Drama is associated with connecting the chorus with the audience.  Prometheus (Un)Bound involves 21 children, a chorus of ten, a steel drum, Pandora’s Box, a combat field-stretcher and a lot of call and response and choreographed movement.  One of the university students helping to organize the event next Saturday sat in on a rehearsal.  Though he was transfixed by the unusual display, he shook his head and wondered how the thing will get pulled off.  It is particularly challenging for me to direct a play that I had translated into another language, but there are benefits.  For instance, I focus more on how an actor communicates with her body and her voice, depending little on the actual words.  Nevertheless, the organizer is right.  The whole thing may completely flop.  Especially since these days it is difficult to get all 21 children in the same room at the same time, and to get the half that are starving and thirsty from their Roza practice to have enough energy to lift their heads.

After painting the masks I rehearsed a song with a group of the younger girls, Pete Seeger’s vintage anti-war song, Where Have All the Flowers Gone.  In my group of ten three of the girls cannot sing at all.  They sound like honking geese.  It is a dance that I must dance every day at the orphanage, parlaying the emotional, character building needs of each and every child, those who are doers, those who are shy, those who are ablaze with talent, those who do not think they have talent in their tiniest fingernail. It is widely accepted that a rope is only as strong as its thinnest point.  But there is a way to do things I learned about while living in proximity to the tribal people of Southeast Alaska, a way to turn weakness into strength, translating into the notion there is a place for everyone.  This belief has been mishandled from time to time in the developing world with its rush to communistic ideologues and in developed liberalized schools that have in my lifetime gone back and forth several times on whether this means each classroom should in the name of democracy be a pastiche of children of all skill levels or in the name of progress they should be divided up in order to more allow those who excel to excel and those who don’t to gain more self esteem.  Politicians and teachers and administrators and board members should spend a few months in a tribal village.  Much of what they will see will shock, much will rightfully be written off as archaic, but much will send light bulbs exploding above their heads.  Specifically I am speaking of a strange blending of democracy and communalism.  We don’t know what anarchy is because it has never existed formally as a system of governance.  It is, of course, the antithesis of governance.  That is why it gets branded with anything chaotic and dysfunctional, Afghanistan for example.  We do have examples of Socialism, but these resemble the antics of governments and school systems trying to make everyone happy more than what is functional in the tribe.  So what is it, this blending?

I don’t know, exactly.  I only know it is happening.  It does not have a name, but it has the potential to create peace, and perhaps even a new Renaissance in thinking and feeling.

I am here not only because I love these children and I feel responsibility as an American.  The AFCECO orphanage is a place where for once the positive elements of the tribe can be grafted organically with positive elements of western culture.  I want to be a part of its development.  For me it is as exciting a place to be as I imagine a laboratory on the cusp of a breakthrough is for a scientist.  This experiment is small, but it is growing.  In addition to educators willing to learn as much as teach, it will require someone to document its progress, someone to make the lessons here transferrable, replicable and understandable to greater and greater audiences.  This is something I think I can do, if I don’t give up, if I don’t lose my nerve, if I don’t let my desire for a cabin, a boat, an ocean, a fishing pole and a bottle of wine overwhelm me.

Every step of the way I remind myself that the willing participants in this experiment, the children, do not have it so easy.  To be sure, compared to their life in the streets or in the throws of violence, poverty, drugs, and fundamentalism, they have the most luxurious existence.  But being misfits, away from home and family, knowing how much all the adults in their world expect of them, and most unacknowledged but deeply affecting having a world of knowledge explode upon their psyche is a tremendous challenge.  These children are learning four or five languages, they are discovering the concept of the Earth spinning in space.  This is always on my mind, and this is why on the stairs, in the hall, sitting and eating rice and chicken and especially in my classroom I venture to make them smile and if possible once in a while to laugh at me, at the world, at themselves.

Ten masks each reflect one child’s personality, the chorus of humanity catching its breath.  The eleventh mask with its long yellow beak is for Frishta, who plays the monstrous Eagle that, at Zeus’s command tears into Prometheus every day of her imprisonment, devouring her liver that then regenerates for yet another onslaught, and another.  We placed the masks on display in the library, and I watched as the artists gave little tours to other curious children.  They explain the parts that are played, and who will play them.  This is how they learn the concept and feeling of what it means to belong.

It was 3 in the afternoon.  The veil of Roza falls heavily at this time.  People begin to lose focus.  An energy fills the room akin to the cusp of weeping or mania.  I called it quits and asked Yasin if he could drive me back to the office.  I didn’t even say goodbye to everyone the way I always do.  There was something heavy on my mind.  I sat in the minibus and waited for Yasin to finish his chi.  Sabsagul and Medina waved from the garden.  I waved, sank lower in the seat.  Yasin approached the minibus, handed his empty cup to one of the girls, rolled his sleeves, climbed into the driver’s seat and asked me in Dari if I was tired.  I nodded, though I didn’t know how to say this tiredness I felt was not the same as sleepiness.  The guard opened the gate and Yasin backed us out into the otherworldliness that is Kabul city.  On the way back to the office as usual I watched the people in the streets, the dust, the garbage, the bricks.  A moment of weakness overcame me and I wanted to go home.  But what is home?  What life would I begin?  How could I ever leave Andeisha and Jamshid in the throws of their battle against forces akin to Almighty Zeus himself, and how could I leave the children, to bear deserting them and to face an unmeasured depth of despair for missing them?  I wondered about Farzana, her having been back in the orphanage and now returned to Italy.  She has told me in a letter how it is for her, how strange.  An orphan with everything and nothing, she will move forward, apply herself further to her studies, embrace the goodness that has come to her life.  I cannot help but feel a profound kinship with her.  It has to do with mirroring images moving in opposite directions, my immersion deeper into Afghanistan and her further estrangement from it, my approaching fifty and her approaching sixteen.  A teacher and his favorite student, we are a photograph and its negative likeness.

In a place such as Afghanistan it is impossible to ignore God.  Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism, Communism, and Islam have had their way here.  Even Pathans, descendants of the Ten Tribes of Israel who ironically are now Moslem infiltrate the landscape.  The very first monotheistic religion, Zoroastrianism was founded as early as 600 B.C. up in Balkh, crystallizing for the first time a clear distinction between the forces of Good and those of Evil.  In Nuristan, until recently an ancient and undisturbed form of Animism existed with its pantheon of deities.  For many people in those isolated mountains, the trees themselves are to be worshipped.  This must be why, as godforsaken as Kabul seems, I often see God.

On this first day of Ramadan, returning from Mehan orphanage, negotiating the sun as it beat its stored late afternoon radiance from the ground up, God appeared to me in the street.  Yasin was negotiating a small traffic jam.  A bus going to Bamyan had tried to turn around and stalled in the middle of the effort.  Cars piled up behind us.  We could not move back and we could not move forward.  We could only wait.  Right beside us a small gray and white donkey stood frozen in the heat, harnessed to a handmade wooden cart.  The cart was flat, medieval and empty.  I watched the animal blink, and knew it was alive, but I wondered what it would take for the beast to move that cart once again.  My window was only half open.  I pushed the button and lowered it the rest of the way.   The donkey blinked again.  I suddenly loved this hopelessly simple animal.  I wanted it to see me, to acknowledge my love.  It blinked once again, but otherwise did not move, did not even flinch the skin of its back to shed the flies that had settled there.  Without warning I felt a swelling in that place between the chest and the throat, like the onset of emotional retching.  I turned and faced the donkey squarely, to hide my tears from Yasin and, futile as it was, to offer them up as solace or penance, a kind of alms that might alleviate my solitude and fear.  But in that moment the Bamyan bus ignited and belched a cloud of diesel fumes.  Yasin pushed his controls and my window went up.  He punched the transmission into drive.  We lurched forward.  The donkey, its cart, its blinking eye were gone.  Just as quickly, so too were my tears.

We are all just trying to live.

August 6

Published on 06 August 2010 by ianpounds in Kabul Journal

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I was invited to help celebrate Marwa’s 3rd birthday.  She was born in the orphanage, and I have been a part of two of those birthdays.  I am exhausted.  Classes began this week, and we are preparing to perform for Afghanistan Independence day on August 19, including the drama and songs.  I have no energy to write, so I offer you a glimpse of the party which lasted until midnight.  I finally introduced the girls to the Beatles.  Serious 1965 style dancing ensued.  When it was finally over, the kids vacated one of their rooms for me.  They were adorable, setting up a fan, leaving flowers on the pillow. They all came to say goodnight together.  Flashes of my life for five moths last year came rushing back through my mind.  I spent the night sleeping in an orphan’s bunk.  The bed was short.  I bumped my head on the upper bunk.  I was in heaven, back in my Kabul home, Mehan.